Match of the week

Arbroath smokie mousse and leeks with Vinho Verde

Arbroath smokie mousse and leeks with Vinho Verde

I’ve been dying to eat at The Goods Shed in Canterbury since I first walked through its doors and was blown away by the range and quality of the produce they have on sale there and I finally made it last week.

It’s a bit like an indoor farmers’ market with different stalls including a first rate butcher and fishmonger. They also have a small restaurant space down one side that makes full use of the ingredients that are on display.

They’d sadly run out of crab tart but told us there was a replacement dish of Arbroath smokie mousse with poached leeks and radishes. I’m guessing the smokie, which is a type of smoked haddock, was poached in milk then anointed with drops of leek- or maybe parsley-infused oil.

Anyway it was absolutely delicious and a brilliant match for the 2023 Azevedo Vinho Verde I’d picked off the list, a blend of alvarinho and loureiro. Crisp, dry and slightly saline as opposed to the spritzy off-dry style that the region used to produce.

It’s great value too. You can buy it currently from Waitrose  for £9.99 though it is quite often on promotion.

Albarino would of course work with that sort of dish too.

For other alvarinho - and albarino - matches see

The best pairings for albarino (and alvarinho) 

 Cappellacci with cime di rapa and alvarinho

Cappellacci with cime di rapa and alvarinho

OK, I know I wrote about dumplings last week and stuffed pasta isn’t *that* different but if they’re both delicious with wine why not?

This week’s match was at a new neighbourhood restaurant in Bristol called Sonny Stores which turns out to have quite a pedigree as the chef Pegs Quinn previously worked at the River Cafe then as head chef at the currently closed Bianchi’s and during the summer at the appropriately named Lockdown Pizza.

Anyway I didn’t know all this when I ordered the cappellaci* which are basically twisted ravioli, stuffed in this case with cime di rapa and bathed in a glorious puddle of melted butter. However I did anticipate they would go with a crisp dry white and so it proved in the case of a Quinta de Gomariz alvarinho (Portugal’s answer to albarino) which was still amazingly fresh for a 2017 vintage.

Not rocket science maybe but the temptation always is to reach for an Italian wine with a pasta dish isn’t it and this is proof that other countries can do the job too. (I also find Portuguese reds often work with Italian food.)

*Thanks to an instagram follower @deborahdalfovo for identifying the pasta shape as I’d forgotten to note it down!

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